“Chelaji re, mare hatu Patan thi Patola mongha lavjo,” is a Gujarati folk song we’ve all grown up hearing. It beautifully expresses the desire of women for the exquisite Patan Patola sarees. This longing connects us to Gujarat’s rich textile heritage, represented by these sarees, which have endured through time.
Hailing from the historic town of Patan, about 128 km from Ahmedabad, Patola sarees are made using the intricate double ikkat technique. Known for their vibrant colours, symmetrical patterns, and luxurious feel, these sarees are more than just clothing; they symbolise Gujarat’s cultural pride and artistry.
The history: Brought to Patan in 12th century by Salvi community
Did you know that the word “Patola” comes from the Sanskrit term “pattakulla”, which means fine silk?! It is believed to be the plural form of “patolu”. In the 11th century, under the rule of the Solanki dynasty, Patola became closely linked with Gujarat.
The craft took deeper roots in the 12th century when silk weavers from Karnataka and Maharashtra, known as the Salvis, moved to Gujarat. They settled in Patan and started weaving the double ikkat Patola sarees, which soon became a symbol of luxury and status for the nobility. One story credits King Kumarpala of Patan for the rise of Patola. He loved the fabric so much that he invited 700 craftsmen and their families from Maharashtra to Patan!
Over time, Patola sarees became a status symbol for Gujarati women, especially as part of their bridal trousseaus, strengthening its importance in Gujarat’s culture.
A look at the intricate crafting process
Patan Patola sarees are crafted using an intricate resist-dyeing technique that combines warp and weft methods. Creating a single saree can take four to seven months, reflecting the skill and patience involved.
Artisans begin by tying yarn with cotton threads to form specific patterns before dyeing. Each colour is carefully placed within the design to maintain proper alignment. The yarn undergoes multiple rounds of tying and dyeing, making the process laborious and time-consuming. It can take nearly a year to produce these exquisite pieces, turning them into true collector’s items.
The double ikkat technique is key to Patan Patola, as both the warp and weft threads are dyed prior to weaving. This ensures the vibrant designs are visible on both sides of the saree, showcasing the remarkable craftsmanship and the rich tradition of weaving that has been preserved for generations.
The relevance of Patan Patola today
Despite challenges from mass-produced textiles, the traditional Patola continues to be a symbol of luxury and heritage. Efforts by cultural institutions and exhibitions, coupled with the fabric’s Geographical Indication (GI) status, have helped sustain its relevance.
Today, Patan Patola sarees are not only cherished as heritage garments but are also gaining recognition in contemporary fashion. The growing emphasis on slow fashion and sustainable textiles has boosted interest in these handwoven pieces, making them both a luxury item and a cultural statement.
Where to Buy Patola Sarees in Ahmedabad
You can find high-quality Patan Patola sarees at various places in Ahmedabad, including:
Patola by Nirmal Salvi (Bodakdev)
Heritage Patan Patola (Satellite)
Sindhoi Patola Art (Satellite)
Sheetal Patola By Sunil Salvi (Sindhu Bhavan Marg)
Balaji Patola (Ambawadi)
Asopalav (Shivranjani Cross Road)
Explore these stores for a stunning selection of sarees!
